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1.
COPING WITH CONDITIONS
I would like to suggest a simple method of
coping with the main conditions and adjusting when you are not 'making
the pocket'.
In previous articles I have pointed out how
conditions are nearly always changing due to the amount of linage (the
number of games already having been played on the lane), atmospheric
conditions within the center, type of lane dressing, method of dressing,
time of day, etc.
Actually, lanes can vary from game to game and,
sometimes, within a few frames. There is often a difference as to how
the changes are dependent on where the lanes are situated within the
bowling center.
Again, a considerable change can be found from
one center to another. Whether you are bowling in the morning,
afternoon, evening or late at night can make a great deal of difference.
Different brands of bowling balls react in
different ways on similar conditions, so there is so much to be aware of
and to understand. Many times you must have seen a bowler who looks good
during the approach and delivery, but doesn't score so well as bowlers
who may not inspire with their approach, style, etc. The latter probably
understands to a better degree how to cope with the changing conditions.
Let's think about the main basic conditions you
may encounter on the lanes: Very Oily, Medium Oil, Dry and Patchy, so
let's go through a normal routine.
You have picked up your bowling ball from the
return with both hands at the sides of the ball, ensuring you cannot get
your thumb and fingers trapped between your ball and one returning. You
move to your stance position, determining where you are going to place
your feet in relation to the two lines of location dots on the approach
so that you can line up your target with your eyes, then making sure you
know on which board this start position is, because you will want to
make your foot adjustments from the original position.
2.
SLICK LANES
We will start off with freshly oiled lanes.
Because of the amount of oil (lane conditioner) there would be a
considerable skid (slide) element and your ball might be late in
hooking, or not at all. The same problem could arise with oil build up
because there has been little linage, or humidity is high in the center.
Clues to look for would be if your first ball consistently misses the
head pin on the right if you are right-handed, or to the left for left-
handers, and when you ball comes back there is a good oil track on it.
Do not think that you are necessarily bowling
badly, or the lanes do not suit you. Firstly, make a simple adjustment
on the approach. Bearing in mind that the board you noted as your guide
board for your foot position in your stance, right-handers try moving
your feet to the right, say two or three boards, but keep to your same
target.
Left-handers should try moving the feet stance
position to the left, again keeping the same target.
By moving outwards, as it were, you will be
moving your angle line for right-handed bowlers further to the right and
left-handed bowlers will be moving the angle line further to the left,
thus causing the ball line to finish at the pin deck closer to the head
pin and, hopefully, into the pocket itself.
However, if by the initial move the ball does
not arrive in the 1-3 pocket for right- handers, 1-2 for left-handers
and right-hand- ed back-up bowlers who should be using the left side of
the lane, and hit the head pin dead on the nose or crossed over, then
the original correction movement was too great. In this case, you need
to move back a half or full board towards your original position.
On the other hand, if the original move of two
to three boards was not sufficient to bring the ball back into the
pocket, then you would have to move your feet position out a little
further.
In all these moves you must be aware of the
number of the board which you have moved to and also that you hit your
target (arrow). If you are not consistent in hitting your target, then
any corrections you make will be worthless. In fact, you will be trying
to make corrections on faults and will become hopelessly lost.
3.
DRY LANES
Maybe you are confronted by dry lanes and then
your ball can hook too soon because it grips the lane much earlier.
Right-handed bowlers could miss the pocket and even cross over the head
pin, going too far left. Left- handed and back-up bowlers may be missing
their pocket and crossing over to the right. If this is the case, then
the simple correction is to move the foot position towards the center of
the lane, keeping the same target and rolling the ball out towards the
target, thus creating a greater angle to the Strike Zone. As before, the
movement of the feet in the stance position may be a board, two or
three, or even more in some circumstances. This movement will be
determined by the number of boards you are missing your pocket zone by.
4.
MEDIUM LANES
Let's now consider conditions in between,
oiling in moderation. The corrections required may be as little as half
a board or one board movement of the feet in the direction I have
previously mentioned, depending whether it is an over reaction or under
reaction of the ball.
5.
PATCHY LANES
Finally, you often find the lanes are in a
'patchy' condition. These can be caused by the earlier linage, the types
of ball used, as reactive resin balls will soak up oil as well as remove
it, the heat content in the ball, dry- ness or humidity in the
atmosphere and even draught can cause problems.
These conditions can confuse bowlers, certainly
beginners, and just changing the start position will not necessarily
bring the answer. In fact, when these conditions exist, probably
complicated adjustments will be needed, for instance: change of ball,
change of line, using more or less lift, side rotation, loft, etc.
But providing you have a good and consistent
physical game, then you can build your knowledge by learning from
instructors/coaches, reading good books, watching top bowlers, attending
courses and, most of all, gain experience by practice in all the above
situations, learning all the time so that you will be able to make a
quick appreciation of what to do.
6.
PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT
Serious regular practice on as many different
conditions as you can find in as many bowling centers as you can visit
will gradually build a picture for you as to how your bowling balls
react. That will then be your personal computer for you to draw on
instantly when required.
Be
aware that the conditions during league and competition play, which you
adapt to at the time, seldom maintain the sameness throughout the play
period. Be alert to changes as they happen.
7.
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Consistency
must be achieved first.
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Before
attempting to adjust to conditions, you must have a consistent
delivery and release. Do not attempt to adjust if you do not:
- Have
an accurate, consistent arm swing.
- Have
a properly timed arm swing with your foot movements.
- Have
mastered your release, and it is the same every time.
- Have
a straight approach, without drifting more than 3 boards to
the left or the right.
Once these
factors are consistent, its time to start considering the
condition of the lane and how to adjust.
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How
to Adjust
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There are
two basic rules for adjusting to lane conditions:
Move in the
direction of the Error or Take advantage
of the
conditions.
Move
in the direction of the Error
If your ball is consistently missing to the right, move to the
right in the stance. If your ball is consistently missing to the
left, move to the left. You should move the same amount of
boards by which you missed. It is important to use the same
target out on the lane and open or close your
shoulders in relation to your target.
For right-handed bowlers, open your shoulders when you adjust to
the left, and close your shoulders when you adjust to the right.
For left-handed bowlers, close your shoulders when you adjust to
the left, and open your shoulders when you adjust to the right.
It is important to remember, to continue to walk strait
to the foul line even though you may be moving to the left or
the right.
Take
advantage of the conditions
When taking full advantage of the conditions you should play a
hook game when the lanes are dry, or play a straight game when
the lanes are oily. A hook ball is nearly impossible, when the
lanes are very oily just as a straight ball would be difficult
when they are very dry.
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8.
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Mental
Game
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A
bowler's mental game is perhaps the biggest roadblock to
improvement in ones game. Bowlers tend to become depressed or
angry at their bowling. It is especially difficult since
improvement is rarely quick, and to see a dramatic improvement
is rare. As with other sports and in life improvement in bowling
is often in stages with long pauses in between.
Becoming too excited, or over-thinking the game are also common
problems faced by many bowlers. On the other hand, others will
lack enthusiasm and motivation.
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Bowling
Always Means FUN
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Once
you feel bowling became upsetting or boring this is a
"blinking neon" sign that you need to change your
mental game.
Every time you bowl you should be faced with a different set of
challenges. The conditions will be a little different, you'll be
different, and the pin action may be a little different. This
is the challenge and the fun of bowling. It’s important
not to get so involved with improving your game that you forget
to enjoy it.
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Be
Confident
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As
your bowling skills increase, so will your confidence.
This can only be achieved through practice, developing a reflex
action, and muscle memory. It is not something that comes over
night, and you need to handicap yourself and know your limits.
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Be
Positive
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You
are what you think, You do what you tell yourself to do.
Think positively while bowling; do not focus on the negative
aspects of your game. Use positive reinforcement, and
encourage yourself as well as others while bowling. The
happier you are, the easier it comes.
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Use
Mental Imagery
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Mental
imagery is usually bits and pieces of your memories.
It is important to think of positive mental images that aid in
you in your bowling. Go step by step of the proper approach and
follow through using mental imagery. Think about your ball
hitting your target, and its result. Using this mental imagery
will help you relax and reach your goals.
Be careful, not to think about any goals while bowling as it can
add unnecessary pressure. Its good to dream about bowling a 300
or a new high series before bowling, but it is essential not to
think about these goals while bowling. Concentrate on your
approach, release, ball's reaction, and adjustments and your
goals will follow on their own!
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Adjustment -
Angle
Description
Usually, during the course of a game, the ball will lift oil off
the lane, or push it further down. This means that your "line"
to the pocket will dry up and your ball will hook earlier (more
friction between it and the lane). A simple move is make a
slight move left with your feet (left-handers reverse this
process) to create some more swing. You change the shape (angle)
of your line to the pocket. You can make a parallel move left,
to get your ball back in some fresh oil. These are
"bumps", when you've bumped left enough, though, you
may hit a dried out line created by another bowler - you then
need to "jump" left, i.e. instead of tweaking your
line a board or two, you jump five-ten-fifteen boards left.
But then what do you do when you've
moved as far left as you can? Simple, remember your ARSE -
you've still got three more adjustments.
Adjustment -
Rotation
Description
More axis-rotation (hand up the side of the ball in the release)
will create skid to get the ball down the lane and stronger
hook.
In the days of reactive-resin cover stocks fewer people employ
this, preferring to let the ball roll off their palm for a
45-degree rotation, which creates a strong, but more controlled
hook. On heavier oil where the ball skids longer and doesn't
move into a hook/roll use less rotation, bringing your hand more
up the back of the ball.
Adjustment -
Speed
Description
On drier lanes delivering the ball with more speed will help it
get further down the lane before it reacts to hook into the
pins.
Watch racing drivers, they slow down in the rain (on wet
conditions): why? Because there's less friction. Your ball needs
friction to hook and roll. So, on oilier lanes a slower ball
will help create the earlier reaction you need to stop your ball
sliding all the way. Remember the skid-hook-roll pattern: if you
throw a hook ball and it is not moved out of the skid and into
the roll you will not carry the strikes you need to win.
Adjustment -
Equipment
Description
To adjust your Rotation or Speed requires skill and practice.
As
with golf it can be easier to choose the correct equipment: on
oily lanes you need more friction so choose a ball with a duller
surface and later, when it dries out, go to a shinier ball (less
friction will help it get down the lane). Since Reactive ball
came on the scene the old static weight have become less
important. Matching the ball to the condition is not that hard,
though the manufacturers can easily confuse you with complex
terminology.
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